Encove Blog

I’m a great believer of getting straight to the point so apologies for ranting on about theoretical physics in a blog on clothes sizing and not just cycling clothing. I was watching a documentary on TV this week on Black Holes, that’s the ones in outer space, not the ones I keep falling down on my mountain bike. It appears theoretical physicists have found an inconsistency in Einstein’s E=MC² or “The theory of relativity”. Basically when it comes to explanation of Black Holes, at the centre there must be even the tiniest singularity to create the intense gravity, yet the Einstein’s equation equals infinity, which according to the experts just can’t be right. They have even run the theory using “Quantum Mechanics”, that’s the calculation for things at the sub atomic level (really small) and the answer come out even worse at infinity plus infinity recurring. Now I’m not professing to understand theoretical physics but I have to admire these guys with their long formulas that can theoretically calculate something smaller than an atom at the centre of a vast galaxy of around 400 billion stars. My point being; in an age where physicists can agree, or agree to disagree about a point 27,000 light years from earth, why on Earth can't clothing manufacturers and retailers agree on a standardised sizing system for clothing?

I’m no Einstein, but I can take a tape measure to my waist and it will measure 39 to 40 inches, yet walk into a NEXT store and easily fit into a size 36 inch jeans. So, does that mean my waist measures 36 inch? Three weeks ago my wife was looking to buy so Craghopper trousers on the Internet for my nephew’s birthday and she also found some Craghoppers on sale that she thought would suit me, but they were only in 36 inch waist. I explained that I was at least a 39 inch waist, but she pointed out that my jeans were only 36 inch and clicked the buy button. The trousers were promptly delivered to my work and when I tried them on they were an exact fit, when I measured the waist it was 40 plus inches with the rear elasticised waist band fully stretched. This is what the trade call vanity sizing it’s sized to make you feel better about yourself... even though it’s a total fabrication.

“Which?” online in September 2010 titled an article, “9 in 10 women 'annoyed' by high street sizes” and claimed that of consumers questioned “82% think retailers should be clearer about the measurements they use” The article goes on to point out that the difference between a woman’s size 12 waist is 4cm between “New Look” and “NEXT”. But this is where it gets really confusing because I personally know that “NEXT” jeans and “Craghopper” trousers are up to 4 inches bigger than stated waist sizes. So, have “Which?” actually measured the garments? I would suspect not. If retailers don’t have standardised ladies Bust, Waist and Hip sizes and continue to measure with elasticised tape measures the written measurements on their Web Sites are worse than useless.

Summarily with sizes using the Small (S), Medium (M), and Large (L) as with leisure and sports clothing including cycle wear, there are also massive inconsistencies. This is often due to the markets and countries for which they were originally designed, European sizes often tend to smaller than UK and USA sizes.

The chart below takes a look at some of the size cycle shorts waist size variations in the market place I have included Marks and Spencer (M&S) casual shorts sizes because I know they reputed to use vanity sizing. It has to be said that I do know the Deko Sports waist sizes are correct as using the standard tape measure, but I have only a limited data on any of the other manufacturers sizing policies so it would be unfair to comment.

Is there a sizing standard?

Yes, there is EN 13402 which has now been approved by British Standard as BS EN 13402. This is a comprehensive system of measure of off the peg clothes. As we are all different shapes, no clothing measurement system will suit all, the only real but impractical solution to suit everyone is made to measure clothes. While EN 13402 sizing is a standard it may not stop the practice of vanity sizing by the high street stores, they could still use their stretchy elastic tapes measures and invent sizes to make us feel smaller. Really, how far should we take our vanity? If you're fat, you're overweight, do somthing about it...  or maybe  join a weight watcher club who uses scales that tells you the weight as we'd like it to be, not what it actually is.

There are hundreds of breathable cycling jackets available in the cycling wear market today, all of them boasting unique qualities and superiority over all over cycling jackets. So knowing which one to spend your money on can be quite a daunting task, not to mention time consuming. This article is designed to help you to understand your needs and the differences between the types of breathable cycling jackets available, to help you to make an informed decision.

Understand your needs:

• What sort of cycling do you intend on doing? Road cycling will require tighter fitted cycling wear which will flap less in the wind, whereas a cross country or a freerider may find a looser fit is better suited to their needs as it allows for layering of clothes underneath and offers more movement and greater comfort. Tighter fitted cycling jackets offer more breathability.

• What weathers are you expecting to be cycling in?

• Cold Temperatures require: High collars, long backs and sleeves and drawstrings.

• Warm Temperatures require: Adjustable sleeves and extra zips or ‘pit zips’.

• Wet Climate’s require: A hem to cover your bum and stop wheel spray and a detachable hood.

If you purchase a cycling jacket with any of the above features your overall cycling speed will be reduced, as they provide additional weight and more wind hindrance. Some features such as ‘pit zips’ will enhance breathability.

• Do you require pockets?

• Need to take your cycling jacket off without removing your helmet first? Ensure your cycling jacket has front zips, this will improve breathability. Remember any additional weight will make you work harder and sweat more reducing overall breathability of the cycling jacket.

There are many different types of breathable cycling wear available, these can be split into 3 main categories: 1. Gore-Tex (PTFE/PU): has 2 layers, the PTFE layer (Poly-tetra-fluoro-ethylene or Teflon) which is microporous, it is highly hydrophobic (water repellent) but allows for water vapour (in this case a body moisture molecule) to pass through it. The second, PU (polyurethane) layer on the inside protects the PTFE layer from contamination whilst still allowing moisture to escape.

2. E-Vent (PTFE only): has only the PTFE layer, chemical treatment offers protection from contamination instead of the PU layer. These are often heavier cycling jackets and are typically a little more pricey. 3. Paramo: has 2 layers of fabric impregnated with Nikwax TX Direct treatment. Cycling wear made from Paramo is highly breathable.

With this information in mind, an idea formed of the features you require from your jacket and an understanding of the fabric you would like your cycling jacket to be made from, your search should now be considerably shorter and so, a lot more fun for you!

It goes without saying that a day in the saddle is going to play havoc with your buttocks, so it makes perfect sense to wear some extra protection. The recommend first line of defence is a “chamois” padding that is stitched into directly into Spandex, Lycra or Xpandx shorts preferred by road cyclists. They are also worn as a padded under short, beneath baggy cycling shorts for downhill and cross country mountain bikers.

The original pads sewn directly into the shorts were a leather chamois, pronounced shammy, named after the “chamois” which is the European antelope from which the leather was derived. The leather was tanned using cod oil to reduce friction and improve absorbing properties. Fortunately these pads are now just a piece of history, today we use mainly chamois leather to clean our bikes and use modern antibacterial foam or gel pads to protect our achcing backsides.

The modern cycling pads are a foam or gel generally covered by a wickable and breathable material that is moulded to shape which helps channel the moisture from the genitals and anus thus preventing potential bacterial growth. At the same time foam or gel in the pad are positioned and often layered to prevent stress to your Tuber ischiadicum or Sitz Bone and chaffing on your buttocks and upper thigh. Additional protection is also available in form of anti chafing creams and gels.

A pad is designed to be worn directly to the skin, wearing boxer shorts or underpants will render the antibacterial and wicking properties of the pad useless. The only way to wear a padded shorts or under shorts is commando style. It goes without saying that the more you pay for your padded shorts the better the pad should be, but there are also some great value cycling shorts with adequate padding at the budget end of the market. The new G-Tex pad by Deko Sports is such a pad with 3D layering and sweat dispersal channels and vents.

One could argue that apart from colour your basic cycling jerseys don’t tend to differ much one from the other, OK there's long or short sleves but the main style choice is the length of zip. In winter it is probably best to have a jersey with just a short zip at the neck or on the raglan seam, as this stops any possible draughts and when the temperatures outside are very low you need every advantage you can get. In the spring and autumn, a long zip is probably the best choice, as you can adjust it depending on how hot you get, right down to fully open.

If you like your jersey very closely fitting, a full length zip is probably essential, so that you can get it on easily. When you have finished a ride and you are a bit sweaty, there is nothing worse than trying to ease a stretchable garment up your back and over your head because it only has a part zip. Just being able to undo it and shrug it off is much more pleasant. If you have longer hair as well, taking off a tight jersey creates all kinds of problems; if you get your hair caught down a sleeve or in any pilling under the arm or on a seam, it can be very uncomfortable.

Long zips do have a built in disadvantage over the shorter ones, in that if they break they are far more expensive to replace. You might say that a cycling jersey is not so very expensive that this would be strictly necessary, but if it is a favourite then many people would go for the repair. Although the long zips are pricier, the open ended ones are a much simpler sewing task than the short ones set into the jersey, so if you are not much of a sewing expert or can’t lay your hands on one to help you out, then the open ended long zip will be much the best option. Long zips have a longer life span anyway, as the closed end doesn’t get forced going over your head.

Link: http://www.encove.co.uk/cycling-shorts/cat_1.html

Lycra and Xpandx is a manmade yarn that has natural elasticity but needs to be kept clean or it begins to break down. Although the fabric which is popular in cycling shorts contains elastane is usually used in Lycra, Spandex or Xpandex, one hundred percent elastane would be very uncomfortable to wear, as it wouldn’t breathe at all and it would be like wearing a plastic bag so it is blended with other fibres to make Lycra type materials . Depending on what the material is used for, the percentages vary, but the amount of elastane needed to give the fabric stretch and rebound is surprisingly little.

As with any mixed fabric, this can give problems as one part of the mix wears differently than the other. This is usually the cause of pilling, when the base fabric has short fibres which break and mesh together to make an annoying and ultimately very uncomfortable little ball on the surface. The appearance of these is usually a sign that the fabric will soon be going into holes and there is little you can do to prevent it. Keeping cycling shorts maintained by frequent washing is one way to stop this happening prematurely, as the sweat and body oils which accumulate within the material only serve to speed up this process.

A good way to prevent shorts wearing out too soon is to keep a couple of pairs in use at the same time. The old phrase ‘one off, one on and one in the wash’ could have been coined for precisely this situation, as by following it you will make sure that your shorts are always clean and fresh. By having at least three pairs, you won’t have to dry them in the tumble dryer because you need to wear them straight away, which will also add to their life as the pads won’t ruck up or wrinkle and the Lycra fibres won’t be exposed to excessive heat, which makes them break down more quickly.